Allen Meadows - Score: 93-95 (2021 June)

A more elegant and cooler nose offers up notes of mineral reduction, citrus confit and a plethora of floral elements. There is terrific energy, power and focus to the big-bodied flavors that also brim with both minerality and sappy dry extract on the youthfully austere, dry and hugely long finale. This is finer than the Bâtard and certainly more mineral-driven and, good as it is, not necessarily qualitatively better.